“Every decade needs its own manual of handicraft” – Liberty Hyde Bailey
Truer words have never been spoken. The charm and elegance a handcrafted article brings is incomparable, something that Mass production cannot replicate.
In this fast paced world where everything is instant, the slow speed of handcraft is slowly dying out and the artisans don’t deserve the recognition their artefacts demand. The collection Virasaat primarily aims at reducing divergent systems of production, by sourcing raw materials locally and by providing work to the local artisans.
Drawing inspiration from the grace and elegance of Maharani Gayatri Devi, the collection emphasizes on re-living traditions of heirloom sarees and khaadi. The designers Himanshi Adlakha and Harpinder Kaur have tried to recreate Gayatri Devi’s style and panache and depicted it through the Indo Western collection.
Using khaadi and heirloom sarees as the primary fabric, they have used saree borders and pearl laces as surface ornamentation. Khaadi is a hand spun and sustainable fabric which is used to restore the value of Indian art of hand spinning and weaving.
The designers have utilized organic hand spun cotton and encouraged local artisans to weave it. The garments are contemporary and have revolutionized traditional Indian fabrics with a modern twist.
As quoted by Honore de Balzac “What is Art monsieur? But nature concentrated”
Nature has always been Pandora’s Box of Creativity and Inspiration, the variety of colours and textures that enriches us our minds is endless.
One such example is the Antelope Caves of Arizona. Hidden in The Antelope canyon, these caves are absolutely awe inspiring and transport you to a world of peace and scenic serenity. These caves are the inspiration for today’s collection Lagom.
Designed by Anamika Jaisinghani & Tasmiya Kausar: Lagom is an evening wear collection, created using a simple pattern making technique called pattern slashing. The concept has been derived from Julian Robert’s subtraction pattern cutting – which results in zero is no fabric subtraction. The technique has no definite placement of patterns and ensures there is zero wastage of fabric.
To replicate the waves and textures of the caves, soft interlock jersey fabric has been used in a variety of body flattering silhouettes in a bold colour palette.The entire collection has been moulded by hand to promote craftsmanship.
Disposal has always been a major issue when it comes to any industry, in fashion however the maximum amount of disposal is due to the remains of fabric after pattern cutting. Sometimes huge chunks of fabrics go to waste either due to improper cutting or improper sizing. To kerb, this very problem, designers Nikita Badera & Tanuj Bajoria have conceptualised their collection – Deceptive Tatters.
The discarded pieces of fabric from the industry have been used as applique and patchwork and strips of fabric have been hand woven with organic cotton to create a new fabric resulting in an innovative double weave pattern.
The resort wear collection hosts vibrant prints and colours used on flowy silhouettes to give it a minimalistic appeal crafted over comfortable fabrics. Surface detailing using glass beads and excess yarn proved a rustic chic feel to the entire collection.
Odisha, is an ancient land with a rich history. Monuments that reflect amazing architecture compete with the limitless beauty of the land to attract tourists from all parts of the world. The ancient temples are more than an association with religious beliefs; their architectural splendour reflects the skills possessed by the artisans of the land in the bygone era.
The collection has been crafted from Kapadaganda is an ethnic embroidered shawl that belongs to the Dongria Kundh tribe of Odisha. The shawl and cultural heritage of the tribe are the inspiration for the collection Tribes of Passion presented by Ramini Sahoo & G.L. Shobha.
The shawl made from cotton is woven by hand and detailed using embroidery by the tribal women, as a token of love. Colours like yellow, red and green are used which symbolise auspiciousness, power and prosperity respectively.
The shawls have been sourced from an NGO that works towards the development of these tribes and have been combined with Khadi and woollen yarns to created modern silhouettes in crop tops, palazzo pants and one piece dresses. The traditional embroidery has been emphasised more to balance the collection.
Sobrieco is a pattern-centric collection. Turkey tail mushrooms are known for their colourful surface comprising of concentric circular patterns.
The patterns have been incorporated into the collection in the form of stripes. The soya and linen fabric used in the collection have been hand woven and dyed using natural dyes.
Using colour combinations of brown, beige, grey and brown, the garments bring out the earthy feeling that is often associated with sustainability. The silhouettes comprise of fitted business wear for the modern day woman. The collection is presented by Priyanka, Monika, Pallavi & Ramya
The collection Sparsh is based on the distinctive stripe patterns of a tribe called Igorots. The Igorots are a distinctive tribe of people originating from the North province of the Philippine archipelago. Their traditions and the unique stripe patterns on their clothing distinguish them from the other tribes.
Their stripe patterns have been aesthetically incorporated into the collection. The collection is made of handwoven organic cotton, dyed using natural dyes extracted from medicinal herbs. Colours red, indigo blue, yellow and black have been used in this tribal chic collection comprising of contemporary western silhouettes.
The embroidery used as surface detail on the garments are also similar to the ones of the Igorot tribe. The collection is presented by Jyothi Satish, Nymisha, Jyothi J & Hema
Neo Eclectic is an edgy, modern and structured casual wear collection which draws inspiration from eco-life based architectures. The natural fabrics like khadi, bemberg and organic cotton are ornamented with markers scrap as geometrical shapes for design detail and structuring the ensembles.
The marker scraps are also used for creating coloured and textured solids and patterns. The collection is sustainable and commercially viable for chic and futuristic women who are fervent and accomplished in their career. The collection is presented by Asha Rani, Asha Pujari, Poonam Inani and Swaroopa